
Victor Hugo said that “architecture
is the great book of humanity” and
so after the second day of visiting
the Albaicín and Sacromonte,
visitors learn more about this great
city that enchants so many.
The Albaicín, considered one of
the oldest neighbourhoods in Spain
and of Arab essence, embodies the
spirit of those who believe that “a
picture is worth a thousand words.”
Not even the best compliments do
justice to this district of narrow,
winding streets, small houses and
Moorish architecture that make it
so unique.
A world apart within Granada itself,
which today maintains the urban
fabric, identity and uniqueness of the Muslim period and which led to
its declaration as a World Heritage
Site along with the Alhambra and
the Generalife.
The Albaicín was the first place
where the Muslim court was
installed in the eleventh century,
the Zirí, and in its heyday, the last
years of Moorish domination, it
came to have a population of more
than forty thousand inhabitants
and thirty mosques. Years later
and with the arrival of the Christian
faith to the city, most of the
mosques were transformed into
churches, preserving some Arabic
characteristics inside.
Characterized by its winding urban
layout, one of the peculiarities
that you can find is known as the
“Carmen” or home-and-garden,
noted for its composition made
up of a house, a small orchard or garden and a high wall that
separates it from the street, making
the area even more interesting if it
fits into our stroll. The vast majority
of these houses are private, but
some of the most emblematic are
now hotels and restaurants that
you can visit. Mixed with these
Cármenes, Moorish and Nazarí
houses also appear, a result of the
mixture of cultures at the time of
the Christian conquest.
One of the most famous and
accessible ones is the Casa
de Zafra which in turn is the
Albaicín Cultural Center, where
you can marvel at the culture that
permeated the Moorish kingdom in
this stronghold. One of the other
singularities presented by the
district which served its people to
advance socially and technically, is
the channeling and distribution of drinking water, through a system of
cisterns, of which a large majority
are preserved today but that have
fallen out of use with the passage
of time. The most famous and
largest of them, the Aljibe del
Rey, represents a true masterpiece
of engineering while showing a
remarkable state of preservation.
The same applies to “The Bañuelo”
public baths, just a short walk from
the Carrera del Darro, which is a
true example of water use in a
public space during the times of
Al-Andalus.
Casa-Zafra
You shouldn’t miss the breathtaking
views that leave no one unchanged
and which reach their peak at the
St. Nicholas, the Lona, and the
Carvajales Viewpoints, where
Granada serves as the background
rendered before the grandeur of the
Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada.
After enjoying the pleasant
walk you can enjoy the exquisite
dining that Granada offers in its
restaurants and terraces found
along the Albaicín and where you
can appreciate the friendly and
welcoming nature of the locals.
Strolling along you will arrive
to what for many is considered
the most charac te r i s t i c
neighbourhood of Granada, so rich
that its own streets show us two
totally different neighbourhoods
depending on the time of day you
visit. The Sacromonte by day - more
religious and cultured. And the
Sacromonte by night, festive, and
above all, flamenco. These spirits
coexist in complete harmony and
transport us to another time.
Named in the sixteenth century
when the relics of St. Cecilius and
Lead Books of Sacramonte were found in this area, representing
the last effort by the Moors from
Granada to integrate into society,
which was dominated by the
Christian faith.
Sacromonte
To venerate both findings, the
Sacromonte Abbey was built. A
walk to the Abbey offers one of
the most beautiful in any season.
Beside the abbey you can visit the
Holy Caves, where the remains of
the city’s patron, San Cecilius
and the sculpture of Christ of the
Gypsies, are held.
Continuing our journey, you
can see the aesthetics of this
neighbourhood by day, in which the
most intense browns and greens
of the Abbey and Alhambra give
way to the white through the cave houses, whitewashed inside and
out, with chimneys as air vents,
which are to thank for much of
the charm of this neighbourhood.
And this peculiar way of life where
Granada gypsies settled in these
buildings clustered around the
ravines during the eighteenth
century makes this place nothing
but unique. As night falls, a different type of
air is breathed in the Sacromonte.
Religion gives way to charm
and purity, reaching its highest
expression in the flamenco shows
of Las Zambras, the caves that
the gypsies turned into tablaos
to offer visitors long nights of art,
singing and dancing. You cannot
miss this feast for the senses as
did the likes of Anthony Quinn,
Ingrid Bergman, Severo Ochoa,
Yul Brynner, the Duke of Windsor,
the King and Queen of Belgium,
and the King and Queen of Spain,
among others.